Hiking Monadnock ~ September 2010

I’ve been hiking Mount Monadnock since before I can remember. It is one of THE things to do here in the Monadnock Region, and I’ve even caught myself in a state of genuine surprise when meeting someone from the area that hasn’t spent at least an afternoon up there.

The story is that Monadnock is the second most climbed mountain in the world, next to Mount Fuji. That’s its claim to fame. I can believe it. There is bedrock and ledge along the trails that have been worn smooth by the tramping of feet, booted and bare. Realistically, it has probably only been a destination, a weekend jaunt, since the mid 1800’s.

Mount Monadnock is located in Jaffrey, New Hampshire. It is the highest peak in southern New Hampshire. You can see mountains in Vermont and Massachusetts from the top. On a clear day, you can see the Atlantic and the Boston sky line, 75 miles away, the later of which is surprisingly prominent on the horizon… not what you expect from such a distance. There are tons of stories and folklore about our mountain, too. Thoreau camped there and wrote about it.

Painters from around the globe have puts its profile on canvas. In fact, to me, the profile is a model of what a mountain should look like. It reminds me of the “Lonely Mountain” from the Hobbit.

My personal history with the mountain goes way back. When I was a kid, we took class trips to go up the mountain. I believe the cub scouts also went up. It’s true, that during the 5th grade through 12th grade years, I probably didn’t visit Monadnock as often…for although you can see it from almost anywhere around, a lone sentinel guarding the pastoral life in Cheshire County, one still needs a car and license to get there….or at least a driver.

During the college years, I re-discovered the exhilaration of the climb. In fact, it often became a Sunday morning cure for overindulgence the night before… a race up the mountain and down to sweat the poisons out. Afterwards, we would come back and hit “Mr. Pizza” (now Amicci’s) for a slice or sub and… a… beer.

These days, I go at least once a year in the Fall with the kids. Waldorf has a hike day, and the entire school does a trek up the mountain. Ironically this year, my trip was not that one. The Family had been talking about doing the mountain all summer, and last weekend, it just happened to work out to be a time when we all could go. The school trip was going to be mid-week, a few days later, but no matter. I couldn’t take the time off, this year, to go with them, so I was happy to have this opportunity.

The day turned out fantastic.  It was actually quite warm for September, and not long into the hike, the guys had their shirts off and still managed to soak everything with sweat. We took the White Dot Trail, from the State Park headquarters.

The trail starts out relatively easy, with only a minor grade. Then you hit the wall. It seems like every trail up the mountain has the same spot. A flattish section, and then a dramatic break in grade, where you spend a while going up almost vertically, hands and knees style, or cutting back and forth across the slope.

Things changed once we got up above the tree line. When you come out of the trees, the slope evens out, the wind picks up significantly (and never seems to dissipate,) and the temperature drops at least 10-15 degrees. The shirts and sweatshirts went back on.

Finally, we made it to the top. There were more people up there than I had ever seen before. I guess the height of foliage season is not the time to go if you are looking for quiet and solitude. There were a lot of college age kids, freezing their behinds off, dressed only in shorts and tank tops. But at least they looked good, with earrings and makeup and sparkles and I-phones out texting madly to their friends on the peak with them. And that’s what counts…being stylish. Right?

We ate our lunch at the top, and then dubbed around for a while. Tracy and Ken took a bunch of pictures. After an hour of that, we packed up and made our way down. A storm was moving in, and by the time we hit the tree line, the clouds had covered the peak.

Once we got down to the ranger station, we checked out the gift shop and Gumpa bought everybody a souvenir. I love State and National park gift shops. So many field guides, maps, trinkets, hiking gadgets, and cold drinks… its one of the few times I realy like “shopping”

Then, per “Hiking Monadnock” tradition, we drove back to Keene and went to Amicci's for pizza before heading home.

      

Yesterday, Jeremiah climbed the mountain again with his school…a different trail and new adventure.  I never get sick of it. I could go up the mountain once a week. The last trip even inspired us to do more.

I’ve always liked hiking, but this time the rest of the family seemed to really enjoy it, too. Now we are talking about doing the 5-6 day Monadnock-Sunapee Trail, a 50 mile jaunt between the two mountains. I even bought the trail guide. 

Autumn Equinox

"Delicious autumn! My very soul is wedded to it, and if I were a bird I would fly about the earth seeking the successive autumns." — George Eliot

Today is the first day of Fall. The Autumnal Equinox occurred last night at 11:09 Eastern Standard Time. I can’t say what that means to other people around the world, but here in my house its a beginning.

Now is the start of my favorite season. The cool night air returns, and it's actually comfortable to wear long pants, a shirt and boots in the morning. It’s also comfortable to hike in the woods or work in the yard. The mosquitoes and flies are gone for the most part, and the air is exhilarating. I find myself with a renewed sense of vigor and a lust for life.

More often now, our fire pit comes alive, it’s embers warm and comforting during the chilly Autumn evenings, as we sit and watch the familiar constellations pass by overhead. The air is cool and crisp, so the stars are bright, and yet the fire, maybe a coffee or hot chocolate and a sweatshirt keep us toasty warm. On occasion a cold beer will also do. There are new scents in the air, as well. Split, drying wood and crisp, fallen autumn leaves replace summer flowers and the scent of hay drying in the fields. I live for these nights. My spirit soars!

All of the hard work over the summer months is coming to fruition, in the gardens and in the orchards. At the beginning of Autumn, we are still going full bore, working hard to finish the summers chores. Mother Nature’s seasonal clock inside each of us pushes us onward to take care and finish everything, to make ready for a long winter.

Around here, even those who are far removed from the need to prepare for the cold dark months ahead still seem to find increased energy, and a desire to do something “seasonal” outside. The orchards fill up with people, locals and out-of-Staters, here for a weekend excursion to pick apples, drink cider, eat donuts, cheeses and smoked pulled pork sandwiches.  We pick at least one sunny Saturday or Sunday during the fall to spend at Allyson’s Orchard in Walpole. It’s an annual trip we cant miss.

Another integral part of the season for me is Football and home-made soups. We aren’t avid football fans here at Casa Huntley… I could really care less about what all the other NFL and College teams are doing, but I enjoy watching or listening to the New England Patriots. I usually fire up the crock pot and make something like Caldo Verde, with our own kale and veggies, or my own black bean, butternut squash and turkey chili with chipotle. Sometimes Jeremiah bakes a whole wheat bread. If the game is on at 1 O’clock, we probably miss it, or listen to it on the radio while out raking leaves or stacking wood, but if the game is on at four, it becomes a family dinner affair. We grab our bowls and bread, and descend to the family room to watch the game on TV.

Later on in the season, when, in older days, the harvest was completed, the fall celebrations start. I don’t think its any wonder that so many people are born in June and July, nine months from now. The holiday festive season is a beginning.

“Why did dusk and fir-scent and the afterglow of autumnal sunsets make people say absurd things?”— L.M. Montgomery (Emily's Quest)

All the favorite holidays start now. Halloween kicks it off, and around here we have the Keene Pumpkin Festival, where 70,000+/- people descend on Keene for a harvest/Halloween Celebration. It’s huge! It has been rumored that, after running for a couple decades now, this is going to be the final year, in no small part because of the fact that it has grown so large and un-manageable. People come from all over the northeast and beyond.

Three weeks later, my favorite holiday arrives…Thanksgiving! It’s a huge family event. We travel, as do so many, and usually spend the night. Tracy’s family makes a huge spread, with the standard thanksgiving turkey plus a lot of other dishes, not so standard, but very delicious. In years past, snow has been a factor in travel and often the snow, skiing, and sledding start after thanksgiving. Lately, it has been a little warmer and dryer, but the snow is still on its way.

Finally, we hit the holiday hat trick of Winter Solstice, Christmas and New Years. I used to put on a Winter Solstice celebration dinner and a bonfire, but it gets a little tough to have Christmas dinner the same week. We still try and have a Solstice bonfire, or at least a fire pit night and observe the seasonal shift. Christmas Dinner is at my house a few days later, and New Years is usually up in the air.

The last few years have been somewhat of an exception, with the bum economy, but in normal times there is a seasonal pattern to work. Those of us who depend on the weather for work, surveyors and wetland scientists like myself, or for people in the construction industries,  it is customary that that summer is the extremely busy season, and a 50-60 hour work week can easily be the norm in order to take advantage of the light and warmth.

The winter roles around, and things calm down. That’s when we all take our vacations and play. Sledding, skiing, snowboarding, hockey, snowshoeing… and it all starts soon. For me, it’s also a time for not feeling guilty about staying inside on a Sunday, curled up by the fire, reading a book, learning a language, playing guitar or doing a sketch or watercolor. A beginning of the inside season, too.

I’m not saying that I don't like the other seasons, or that I dislike Summer, it’s just that by this time of year, I’ve had enough, I’m ready for a change. The season with all stuff that I like to do is about to start again… the Equinox begins it. I’ve heard some say that it is a depressing time of year, things are dying, the geese are leaving and summer is over, but for me, it’s an exciting new beginning… until the next season and next beginning.

September 17, 1966 to present: My Annual Birthday Blog

Well, folks, another year has come and gone. I am now 44.

Last year I posted a timeline of sorts…a day in history kind of thing. What my life has been like over the past 40+ years. At first, I thought that to do the same thing again this year would be redundant.

But then, so what! I do like to repeat myself…if only to hear myself talk; and I am my own best audience, so let’s commence with this years story.

This year has been good. If you’ve followed me here on “Life as Russ”, you know that I’ve spent a good portion of my free time building stuff, like a chicken coop and a shed/workshop. We now have a dog, a cat, a puppy, 2 bunnies, 2 rats and 17 chickens…talk about a zoo!

We had another great vacation in Maine and I still work at SVE. The kids are in school at Waldorf and Tracy is now working all but full time there. I’ve rediscovered some old friends and made some new ones. Life is good, despite the economy.

 

Now let’s take a moment or two and see if there have been any great events in “A day in the Life” to reminisce over:

5 years ago: 2005/6 - 39 years old

My third winter at SVE and I think I have come into my own. We are super busy, even throughout the winter. I religiously work out and I’m probably physically in better shape now than in any time in my life (except maybe football, but I’m stronger now) Martinis are beginning to take a toll, though.

10 years ago: 2000/1 ~ 34 years old

The Biggest events this year? Well, there are four…

The world didn’t end at new years. All the hype about technology failing and plunging mankind into the dark ages was just that….hype….news for the Enquirer.

In February 2000, I broke my back, and the world did end, in a way. I was told I would be an old man from then on, never be able to lift heavy objects or do hard manual labor again… but I beat that rap.  (The last two technically are when I was 33 but they need repeating he he)

Tracy, Jeremiah & I sold our house in Stoddard and moved to Westmoreland in April 2001. She’s pregnant and I have a bum back, so our family does the lion’s share of the move.

Finally… Grace is born in August, 2001!

I’m working at Clough Harbor and Associates, running a very successful survey department and hoping to make Associate. I became licensed as a NH Wetland Scientist on this year, also.

Yup, 34 was a big year.

15 years ago: 1995/6 ~ 29 years old

Here is another big year, as far as life events go. Tracy & I got married! October 7, 1995 - We had the best wedding, at Saint James Church in Keene, a huge one with all the family and friends. We rode around town in my Grandfather's restored Packard. Our reception went all night and is still recalled as one of the best parties ever. We spent a week in Cancun, Mexico for our honeymoon, but both of us were a tad sick. Someday we’ll come back to Mexico in better shape!

We live in a an old, 1800’s one room school house that still has the chalkboards on the walls. It’s cool in the summer, and freezing in the winter, unless we have the woodstove going, then it’s warm enough to melt our candles.

20 years ago: 1990/1 ~ 24 years old

I’m beginning to see a theme, here. It’s 1990/1 and a few more life changing events take place.

I moved back from Boston at the beginning of the year and lived with Mom & Dad again for a couple months, getting my sh*% together. Then in April 1990, I go on a cross country road trip with my best friend Sam. We make all kinds of stops along the way, crashing at buddies houses, skiing in the Rockies, and goofing off in Carson City Nevada. We finally hit Cali and Sam decides to stay. I take a bus to Vegas, hitchhike to the Airport and fly back to Boston.

In May 1990, I move into “The Condo” with my friends Molly & Pete, into Sam’s vacated room. This is where “The Tribe” started. Room-mates, housemates, party crashers, FWB’s and girlfriends come and go, but Molly & I are there to the end….and still remain better than friends.

This is also when my survey career started. The same week that I moved into the condo, I got a call to start working at C.T. Male. Thanks to John Doughty and Roger Monsell. This put me where I am today. I spent the whole first summer working out of town in Lowell, Mass, surveying the city’s canal systems for the National Park Service. We helped make a National Park! We get cash each week for travel expenses, and my crew chief & I bunk up in a cheap motel and eat bologna sandwiches all summer so as to come home with a wad of cash in our pockets. The weekends are one big blurry party.

I’m kind of a Dead head and a hippie with a long blond braid and big red beard. My crew chief is very conservative and uptight. Ha ha

Grandma died this year.

In February I meet Tracy and by May, we are living together.

Summer of 1991, I start working on another National Park Service job, surveying what amounts to 18 miles of park corridor for the Appalachian Trail in Vermont. Bob, Bill, John, Bruce, Jeff and I spend the whole summer surveying and camping. “Howzit goen…Guden U”  ha ha.  One of the highlights of my career, to this day!

25 years ago: 1985/6 ~ 19 years old

I’m a sophomore at Keene State College, living in Carl Hall, on campus. I work two jobs and have a girlfriend off campus…so I rarely stay in my room. I’m majoring in Geography, but mostly I’m goofing off. College is wasted on the young and foolish. I have my first surveying class, and little do I know, at this time, what that impact will be.

30 years ago: 1980/1 ~ 14 years old

I graduate from Westmoreland Elementary school and become a freshman at Keene High school. It’s a huge step going from a class of 25 kids who grew up together to a class of 400 people that I barely know. I’m kind of lost. I love school and learning at first, but it soon becomes apparent that that is not cool…and I succumb to the need to fit in.

I joined the football team, without any more knowledge of football than the fact that it IS a sport… so obviously, I’m not very good. But the season progresses well and at least I play on all the special teams and make some good tackles, get in the best shape of my life (to date) and make some good friends.

So here again…another big year.

35 years ago: 1975/6 ~ 9 years old

I live at 94 Laurel Lane in Keene, NH and go to school at Jonathan Daniels, an open concept kind of school. I'm in Mrs. Gemmel’s 4th grade. I’m sure something big is going on, but other than being in love with Nancy Andrews, unrequited…I can’t seem to recall much.

Oh year…in June we move from Keene to Westmoreland, and then something huge happens in August ‘76… My sister Sarah is born!

40 years ago: 1970/1 ~ 4 years old

And finally…another big year and the last on the list… the world doesn’t revolve around me anymore! My brother Dan is born in September ‘70.

 

So looking back here, I’ve kind of blurred the lines between following the theme of a specific year (2000, 2005)  and what happened at the certain age that I was (which crosses over year boundaries)…but isn’t that how memory works. It’s all really a blur and most of it feels like yesterday, anyway. It does seem that for me the 5’s and 10’s happen to be big years. And now that I’ve filled the blanks, next year I’ll stick to the age theme.

…stay tuned…

Acadia National Park ~ 2010 summer vacation

-No man needs a vacation so much as the person who has just had one.  ~Elbert Hubbard

Well, here it is folks, the wildly anticipated and highly acclaimed account of the Huntley family’s 2010 summer vacation. You may remember that last summer, we spent a week in Acadia National Park in Maine, camping and doing all the touristy things listed in the official guides. Well, we had so much fun last year, that we decided to produce the sequel this summer.  And just like almost every other sequel of a box office smash, it was good, but didn’t match the first trip.

Now I’m not saying that we didn’t have fun, or that we won’t go there again. We are experienced Rusticators now, and there is still so much to do and see. Our trip this year just hit a few snags. We believe in Karma, and it certainly seemed to believe in us this year, and as the week went on, things just got better and better.

So sit back, pour yourself a favorite beverage, pop some corn and prepare to read another fascinating account of the Huntleys in vacation mode.

First let me say that we really needed a vacation this summer.  The weeks leading up to vacation had been very stressful. I had used a lot of vacation time already this year, so I didn’t have a full week. We decided to leave on a Monday afternoon, after I worked all day Sunday and Monday morning. Perfect! We would stay in a motel an hour or so from Sewall Campground and arrive in the morning around 9, in time for check out/sign in. Since it was mid week and the last week of summer for most families, there shouldn’t be a problem getting a spot in this very economical, first come first serve national park campground.Well, that was mistake number one.

We stayed at a Comfort Inn in Belfast the first night, and I was a little shocked at the $150 price tag, but the view of the ocean was nice and there was a hot tub, sauna, heated pool and restaurant. One night of luxury before roughing it was ok.

Tuesday

We got up early, ate a complimentary full breakfast in the dining room, and then we were out the door, all before 8 O'clock. We arrived at the campground around 10:00 AM only to find a line of 20 cars and people ahead of us, some of whom had camped in their cars overnight.

Aaggh…no room at the inn, they said.

We got in line and decided to wait for a while and ponder our choices. From talking to a few others in line, I learned that all the private campsites on Mount Desert Island were full and that here, they were only letting people in as others left. We weren’t going to give up, but what to do?

Well… Lady Luck found us! A woman with a family, in line behind us, had talked to the rangers and found out that there were a couple of group camping sites open, but just for the night. If we wanted to sign on with 3 other families, we could have one and then come back in the morning to wait in line. We would be given spots, if available, before the new-comers, but after the renewal people who were just lengthening the stay at their already secured spots. At first we hesitated, but as the prospects for a personal campsite seemed bleak, we decided to go for it.

We found our group campsite, which was actually a much better spot than the single sites… bigger, sunnier, grassy and open.  It really worked out.

We set up just the essentials and then left for Southwest Harbor for Sandwiches and Ice Cream at the Quietside Cafe, one of our favorite stops. Last year the place was listed as “for sale,” and we were afraid one the best stops on the trip would be gone, but we lucked out and it was still there.

After we ate, we went back south to Sewall and spent the afternoon on the rocky beach. We left around dusk, cooked supper in camp, and then had a fire and S’mores with our Site-mates. It was fun camping with and meeting new people!

 

Wednesday

Wednesday dawned early for us. The Ranger had told us to be at the station at 5 AM to get a jump on the line, so the two dads,  Michigan and New Hampshire, (that’s what the rangers called us), hiked down to the station at the crack of dawn… shorts, sandals, messy hair and with out coffee.

We thought we had been duped at first. There were two cars in line already, but no rangers and nobody else around. That changed at 5:45. The cars started lining up and other change-site people showed up, as well as the people who wanted to keep their sites and stay longer. My crew showed up around 6:30. Tracy had woken the kids and they ate, broke camp, packed the car and brought me coffee and a breakfast bar. Is that service or what!

We actually had to wait around until 9 when the ranger station officially opened, then we got our tickets…Michigan was 1 and I got numero 2. Apparently our group stay caused quite a commotion at headquarters, as one of our group, a guy who hadn’t even stayed the night, complained at the ranger station about the lack of sites and the neccesity of group camping. This caused all kinds of problems, as the group site we received was normally not allowed for the likes of us or to be used in this fashion. The Rangers felt bad for our families and hooked us up, apparently against the rules.  No good deed goes un-punished, I guess. I’m sure they got some good Karma out of it… they went out of their way to help us and I couldn’t be more appreciative.  But, in any case, by 10:00, people left, and we had a site, and so went off to set up camp.

By this time, it seemed like most of the day was shot. We drove up along the Sommes Sound, got taco salads and quesidillas at a stand and then went to the Park Visitor Center. It’s a cool place to stop, lots of gifts, a video to watch and…bathrooms! Then we piled in the car again and drove up Cadillac Mountain. We spent the afternoon hiking around with the multitudes on the peak, snapping pics and enjoying the views. Yup…touristy, I know, but the kids had to come here at least once. It’s one of those places you HAVE to visit if you come to Acadia. 

We were going to go into Bar Harbor, but every one was kind of hungry and tired, so around 5 we headed back to camp. As I started setting up for dinner, Tracy went to light the Coleman stove and noticed the fuel tank leaking profusely. We made a quick decision to scrap the 15 year old stove and pick up a newer propane one. We cooked beans and dogs, made a fire and roasted S’mores again, and hit the sack around 10.

Thursday

Thursday dawned a beautiful day! I woke at 5 AM again (for some unknown reason) but I made the best of it and got up and made coffee. I sat by the remains of our fire, sipping coffee and reading “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas” until Grace peeped out of her tent.

She loves camping and hiking, but she’s also a bit of a chatty-Kathy, so we decided to take a hike and let the sleepers sleep. We walked to the amphitheater and hiked around the bogs and woods there, then explored the entire campground for next year’s spot. We found some great places and a cool little cemetery, too.

Once back in camp, we ate hard boiled eggs, oatmeal, melon, yogurt, coffee and cocoa. We packed up the car and shot off toward the other side of the island for some hiking along the Sandy Beach/Thunder Hole trail. It’s a beautiful hike along rocky cliffs and beaches. Of course, we went off the trail and hiked the rocks. We spent all day here. 

Later we went into Bar Harbor and got Ice cream at another great stop, Ben & Bill’s. We ate out on the sidewalk and looked in a few shop windows, but didn’t really feel like doing the shopping thing.

We headed back around home around 7. We hit the store on the way and got supper sandwiches, breakfast and day hike snack supplies and then went back into camp and made supper. Sandwiches are key for supper fare! No cooking, little cleanup and quick; plus everyone gets to “do” something. Once again the kids cooked some S’mores at the fire after dinner and we hit the hay early.

Friday

Friday started out a repeat of Thursday. Grace and I took a hike over to Sewall beach this time. We decided that today would be “Bar Harbor day”, although we wanted to do something outside first, so we went south a bit to the Abbe museum and the Wild Gardens at Acadia and Sieur de Mont spring. I loved the wild gardens. All the plants I deal with as a surveyor and wetland scientist are here, planted and set up in little natural communities and labeled. We spent quite a while exploring and playing. Around 1:00 we ate our snacks in the parking lot under some shade trees then headed off to Town.

Bar Harbor is such a cool little town. Every year we spend at least one day here, checking out all the shops, galleries, music and eateries. This time there was a big music festival going on in the common and some funky, jazzy band was playing… so… there wasn’t anything in the way of parking for at least 1/2 a mile.

We were going to park at a spot near the school, and then hike back, but just as we were passing through the center of town, Lady luck blessed us again. We were stopped at an intersection, and I decided to let a couple car loads of tourists and a bus pull out. “Oh well,” I said “They’ll probably find all the good spots, but maybe it’s good Karma.” No sooner had I said that, than a spot opened right in front of us, right on the common. Nice!

So we spent a fun afternoon moseying around town. We all bought something. Jeremiah bought a battle-axe of all things at a sword and knife shop, Tracy and Grace bought wrap around, multi use skirt/dress things and I bought a woven basket for picking vegetables in the garden. So… I’m boring.

The evening was a repeat, too, except we did go to the amphitheater around 8:30 where the rangers were hosting a show put on by the national weather service. After the show we walked back to camp and went to bed.

Saturday

This was Cranberry Islands day. Since I was a kid, coming here with my folks, I had always wanted to visit the Cranberry Islands. Brochures all over mount Desert Island boast of the wonders of the islands, the history, the museums and the cafés. We caught the ferry in Southwest Harbor around AM and went over to the isles. the ferry ride was fun. The weather was beautiful and we saw harbor porpoises, seals and an osprey.

We spent the day ferrying around from island to island, checking off each stop the brochures suggested.

   

The afternoon started to cloud up, and we were hungry, so around 4 we took a very chilly ride back to the main island. We went to this cool place we had been driving by every day, called Eat-a-pita and Cafe2. You can read about our dinner here. Afterwards, we had our traditional last night desert at the Quietside Cafe and then went back to camp. It was a dark and moonless night because of the clouds that had moved in, there were a few sprinkles, and the air was heavy. It looked like rain.

Sunday

Sunday morning arrived and so did the rain. We actually managed to eat and break camp before a drop hit. We even said our goodbyes to the beach at Sewall, and just as we pulled out and headed north towards Southwest Harbor, the full onslaught of the the rain hit. In fact, it rained the entire 7 hour ride home.

 

And for 2011…

Of course, we plan to come back again next year. This time with a few tricks up our sleeve, now that we are experienced Rusticators.

Sunday morning is THE day to arrive. That’s when most people are leaving for the week.  We also found that, starting this year, 1/2 the campsites can be reserved on-line, so we’re not taking any chances.  And… now that we have done about all the touristy things that everybody with a  few days to spend can do, next year we’re going to do more hiking, biking, kayaking and exploring…and I’ll make sure to keep a full weeks vacation available.

Happy Trails!